There are those that favor the grand airports of Dubai or Paris, but entering Bangkok, with a view of lily pads and river boats right outside the terminal, is invigorating. Even if the Suvarnabhumi airport is often nicknamed the “Cobra Swamp.” And if you tip decently, you can breeze right through customs. Once you make it into the city proper, there are a few things that will hit you as hard as the heat: the 24-hour traffic jam, the smell of durian fruit, and the quick realization that your day can be limitless. You can be under the MahaNakhon skyscraper one minute, and the next in a jungle oasis like Bang Krachao.
Street food is king in the city, and street-side restaurants like Jay Fai have even come to earn a Michelin star despite their humble settings. Don’t miss the stir-fried noodles with seafood or the crab omelette, or better yet the chef in her customary goggles. In Chinatown, the vibrant diner, Chop Chop Cook Shop, is excellent for roasted duck soup and more. For really fine dining, head to Restaurant Gaa for a tasting menu inspired by Chef Garima Arora’s Indian heritage.
When you’re not eating (and sweating through the spices), there are endless Buddhist temples worth a visit. One of the most well known is Wat Traimit, which houses a 5.5 tonnes Golden Buddha. For a truly divine experience, head to Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn. Early in the morning the orange and gold hues in the sky reflect beautifully off the structure, while Buddhist monks in similar colors pass quietly by. The Marble Temple, Wat Benchamabophit, frequently draws tourists for its ornateness, whereas in Wat Prayoon you will find mostly locals who like to enjoy its serene halls. For a different kind of religious experience, head to the Jim Thompson House. Thompson was an American silk magnate known for his love of fine objects, and his home and art collection have today been converted into a museum.
Bangkok is also very well known for its nightlife, and one of the most notorious streets in the red-light district is Soi Cowboy. You’ll drink whiskey on crushed ice and dance the night away. For something higher off the street, head to Vertigo, Banyan Tree’s unforgettable rooftop bar. Another popular spot is Stella Bar, known for river views, craft cocktails, and elegant art deco walls. The city is always bustling and dazzling, but it's at night when its spirit truly comes alive.
To learn more about the very colorful and poetic city, read “Bangkok Spirit” by Simon Liberati.