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In Kyoto, I Don’t Dream, I Feel

We sat down with the legendary writer and food critic François Simon to learn where he finds serenity in the historic city of Japan.

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A boat along the Kamo River during cherry blossom season. Courtesy of Assouline from Kyoto Serenity book.

Culture Lounge: Japan is a big part of your life. As a very sensible and secret writer and critic, what have you learned there? 

François Simon: I've learned to renounce all knowledge. Not to refuse the real Japan, but to settle into the present moment and stop thinking, to go blank and capture another reality.

How would you define serenity in Kyoto? 

First, you must welcome serenity within yourself. In Kyoto, I saw a couple of Russian tourists dressed in traditional Japanese clothing, running around with a baby in a baby carriage. This encouraged me to go and pick up serenity the other way round, away from the tourist spots. Get up early, choose the alleys, wait for the night, be silent and savor the beauty of Kyoto.

Why Kyoto more than Tokyo in 2024? 

Kyoto remains a special place if you can slip into its folds. Tokyo remains formidably attractive in its energy and modernity, but I'd almost prefer Osaka and Sapporo.

Kyoto is usually considered famous for its temples, its gardens, and wooden architecture.  But this city is more than a city, and the Kyoto-addicted consider it as an experience. What did you want to celebrate and share in this book?

You're right to talk about experience. I'd even go a step further and think in terms of experimentation—looking where you're not, zoning out relentlessly, forgetting about tourist obligations, doing nothing, breathing, having a slow cup of tea, strolling in remote neighbourhoods.

Fushimi Inari-taisha, a beautiful Shinto shrine in Kyoto. Courtesy of Assouline from Kyoto Serenity book.

Kyoto is a city of contrasts. It’s a place where you can find ancient temples standing next to modern buildings, traditional tea houses next to contemporary cafes. This blend of old and new creates a dynamic and vibrant city, where history and modernity coexist in perfect harmony, said Tadao Ando. Where in the city do you like to feel these contrasts? 

Along the river Kamo.

The height of refinement in Kyoto? 

Feeling you're getting closer.

Your ultimate gastronomic moment there?

The Tempura Matsu restaurant, for its purity.

Your best tips there?

A notebook, ink and brush shop near the Ritz Carlton, an old-fashioned tea house (Ryuoen tea) not far from there, and the wonderful moss garden, Saihō-ji (Kokedera).

Tempura or sushi? 

It's a different kind of journey, and one that requires you to choose your station platform carefully, as it often involves specific restaurants. For my part, I've never been able to choose, because I love these two distinct worlds. One reassures me while the other carries me away.

Your golden hour in Kyoto?

Sunrise at Yasui Kompiragu Shrine.

What makes you dream in Kyoto?

Precisely, I don't dream, I feel.


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