The Assouline Guide to Fashion Month

New York Fashion Week: September 6 - 11

Eat, Drink (And Maybe Check-In) 

At The Manner, a discreet and understated, new 97-room hotel in Soho, guests are encouraged to make themselves right at home: Check-in is a breeze, the staff are stealthy dreamweavers, and the vibe is decidedly low-key. Grab lunch at the Otter, chef Alex Stupak’s street-level seafood restaurant, or head upstairs for a Cosmo at the chic cocktail spot Sloane’s. Guests and their friends, meanwhile, will want to tuck into the Apartment, an exclusive and clubby lounge where anything goes.  

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Hot off the Olympics and the rest of the summer circuit, tennis’ feverish season continues with scores of fans flocking to Queens to take in the US Open. Meanwhile back in Manhattan, Iron Man is hitting the Great White Way. Robert Downey Jr. makes his Broadway debut in McNeal, a timely play about a narcissistic novelist and his obsession with artificial intelligence. 

Drink Here

After more than a decade of extensive renovations, the legendary Chelsea Hotel finally reopened its doors in 2022 as the newly-christened Hotel Chelsea. Along with its restaurant Cafe Chelsea, the iconic address has been an instant hotspot from day one, making its quieter, more subdued Lobby Bar the perfect respite for those in the know. Grab a spot on the couch as you debate between a refreshing glass of Sancerre, and the bracingly cold house martini. 

Shopping List

Stepping into Gohar World, the retail location born from the experiential, food and art-focused design studio of the same name, is an immersion into the playful, sometimes madcap minds of sisters Laila and Nadia Gohar. Whether it’s a set of mother of pearl caviar spoons shaped like sea creatures, or a baguette carrier adorned with a flourish satin ribbons, everything here is delightfully one of a kind.

On the runway

This season, designer Pieter Mulier is crossing the Atlantic to present Alaïa’s Winter/Spring 2025 collection. For Mulier, who usually showcases the renowned French maison’s collections in Paris, the occasion marks a homecoming of sorts, after having lived in New York during a professional stint at Calvin Klein. It’s shaping up to be a spectacular show and homage to the legacy of the brand.

London Fashion Week: September 12 - 17

Eat Here

Situated squarely in the courtyard of the landmarked War Office building where Winston Churchill and other history-making politicians once headquartered themselves, Café Laperouse’s new London location at the OWO hotel stands in perfect harmony with the legendary—and very much still-thriving—Parisian original. Lavish and sceney, such a fabulous setting practically mandates and order of champagne and caviar.  

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For one of the moment’s most talked-about “fashion shows”—and with much easier access, too—book a timed reservation to take in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s Naomi: In Fashion, which celebrates supermodel Naomi Campbell's extraordinary 40-year career in the fashion industry. Showcasing imagery by world-renowned photographers such as Peter Lindbergh and Steven Meisel, and fashion pieces by Alexander McQueen, Alaïa, Chanel, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and Yves Saint Laurent, not to mention those infamous Vivienne Westwood platforms that induced Campbell’s memorable runway fall​, the exhibition is both a testament to Campbell’s impressive and rare endurance in the business (which is still going strong!), and those who worked with her along the way. 

Drink Here

To access Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch, you may have to ring a buzzer at the gate to a schoolyard, where it’s situated in a converted bike shed. It’s a simple, immediately transportive act that continues with a gorgeous glass of the season’s last rosé, and a small plate or two off the market-driven menu. 

One would be remiss not to also mention the supremely chic Swans Bar, inside our Maison Assouline store on Piccadilly—the perfect centrally-located spot for a mid-day or early evening rendez-vous over cocktails and light bites.

Shopping List

The Deck made a splash several years ago when it launched as the only destination for bespoke women’s suiting on Savile Row. Now in a new, more expansive location just down the way, it’s currently one of the famed street’s largest storefronts, with an almost bewildering array of materials and customization options. 

Buy now, savor later: though it’s well-known for its iconoclastic literary following, and smartly-curated selection of new, used, and antique books—chatting with any of the brilliant staff members is a delight—Heywood Hill in Mayfair also boasts a terrific monthly subscription service as well as tailored gift boxes.      

On the Runway

Simone Rocha’s namesake brand has been a longtime critical darling, but after her recent triumph as the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2024 haute couture collection, she’s become a whispered contender to possibly oversee one of Paris’ top luxury maisons—several of which have empty creative directors’ spots to fill. Her show this season will undoubtedly be one to watch. 

Milan Fashion Week: September 17 - 23

Eat Here

Milan has its share of fashion-adjacent eateries, the most well-known being the Wes Anderson-designed Bar Luce at Fondazione Prada. The rompish, fun decor makes it the ideal spot for a panini or quick afternoon espresso, but for dinner, tuck into some risotto and other Milanese classics at the new Trattoria del Ciumbia in the city’s lively Brera neighborhood. The retro-futuristic dining room (designed by the Italian design firm Dimorestudio), from the colorful floor tiles, to the warm walnut wood walls, offers design buffs yet another reason to book a table.

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Under its new ownership, Milan’s famed concept store 10 Corso Como debuted an art gallery earlier this year, showcasing stellar exhibitions devoted to fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto, and the American photographer Roe Ethridge. Opening on September 18th: a show highlighting the works of the contemporary photographer Talia Chetrit, whose recent work includes the ad campaigns for Phoebe Philo. 

Drink Here

Bar Basso, famous for its Negroni Sbagliato and has a long history of being a favorite spot for fashion insiders, designers, and celebrities. Lately, many savvy members of the style set have begun flocking to Bar Nico in the quieter Acquabella district for its stark, modernist design, and excellent list of natural wines sourced from small French and Italian producers.

Shopping List

Those unfamiliar with the brand La Double J will undoubtedly realize moments within entering its flagship location on Via Sant'Andrea that it’s not for shrinking violets. Founder JJ Martin’s, colorful, maximalist aesthetic, which includes a resplendent lineup of clothing, accessories, and home décor, is abundant to the extreme. 

If you’ve got time on your hands, get lost in Bitossi Home’s tremendous selection of playful and chic tablewares, as you dream up your perfect, statement-making tablescape.

On the Runway

Since launching their Milanese label SUNNEI a decade ago, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo have gained a sizable fanbase, in part due to the creative, smart (and fun!) elements they pull into their shows. Last season their models walked down a 775-square-foot rug displaying several colorful patterns, made from recycled nylon yarn, in collaboration with the Milan-based rug brand cc-tapis.

Paris Fashion Week: September 23 - October 1

Eat Here

This summer’s Olympic Games heralded a number of new hotel openings leading up to the global event, including the très charming Le Grand Mazarin. The colorful, mix-match vibe, courtesy of design world maestro Martin Brudnizki, extends to the hotel’s splendorous restaurant Boubalé (named for the Yiddish term of endearment used by Ashkenazi grandmothers, and a nod to the quarter’s immigrant history), where fashionable guests and visitors might be eyed taking covert selfies over plates of showcasing inventing twists on classics like gravlax, and tortellini pasta.

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Opening in early October, Fashion — New Generations: 35 Years of ANDAM at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, will showcase designs by Martin Margiela, Marine Serre, Glenn Martens of Y/Project and other recipients of the esteemed fashion industry prize, known for springingboarding emerging designers to global recognition. 

Drink Here

Situated around the corner from perennially-packed Le Progrès and Café Charlot in the Marais, Le Mary-Celeste, has cultivated its own stylish following for its natural wines and trim selection of unique cocktails, and low-key vibe. The small plates and raw bar offerings are always a good idea, as are the deviled eggs—a trademark dish since day one. In fact, order double. 

Shopping List

Sometimes the best part of shopping during one’s travels is the act of cultivating a specific collection. It’s why the trove of 18th-century-inspired terracotta ceramics and other decorous pieces at Astier de Villatte’s flagship on Rue Saint Honoré is such a worthwhile destination. The challenge, of course, is landing on just one thing. 

On the Runway

Members of the fashion cognoscenti are already placing invite requests for Peter Copping’s debut at the helm of French luxury house Lanvin. For Copping, a “designer’s designer” whose resume includes working at Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, and Balenciaga, the task of resuscitating Lanvin back to the glory of its era under the creative direction of Alber Elbaz will be no small feat—but an exciting end to the month. All eyes will also be on Valentino, where new creative director Alessandro Michele will present his first runway collection for the iconic Italian brand.