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10 Chanel Pieces That Define Its Rich History

From tweed suits to everlasting fragrances, the French fashion house embodies femininity, artistry, and timeless craft.
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Karl Lagerfeld with Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Kate Moss, and Stella Tennant at the Chanel show in 1996. Photo by William Stevens via Getty Images.

Elegance, timelessness, and luxury will forever embody the spirit of Chanel, the French powerhouse whose storied legacy spans 110 years. Founded by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1910, the Parisian-born brand revolutionized fashion with an aesthetic rooted in practicality, femininity and a deep artistry that shaped a new vision of the modern woman's wardrobe. Since its founding, the brand has gone on to create hallmarks that have transcended fashion into global culture, including the world's most iconic perfume, Chanel No. 5, the two-piece tweed suit and the most coveted collection of handbags in the world. Its enduring influence on taste and style cannot be overstated. 

12 years after Chanel passed away, German fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins as the brand's creative director, where his modern vision of wardrobing ushered the house into a new era. During his 36 year tenure, Lagerfeld designed ready-to-wear collections, as well as enduring statement pieces, such as the Chanel Boy Bag and the Gabrielle Bag, and introduced the double-C logo. While anything Chanel is an instant icon, here are the 10 pieces that best embody its legacy.

The Chanel Spring 2019 Haute Couture show, presented in the Grand Palais, transported the audience to an Italianate villa. Photo credit: Peter White/Getty Images.

Chanel No. 5 Perfume

Have you ever wondered how Chanel's most iconic perfume got its name? It was the fifth formula presented to the designer as well as her lucky number. This groundbreaking perfume broke traditional boundaries by using aldehydes, which made the scent more akin to soap than the typical floral scents worn by women at that time. The simple bottle was inspired by men's toiletry flasks and whiskey decanters.

Little Black Dress, Haute Couture

This dress, simple yet iconic, changed the world forever. The Little Black Dress, first designed by Chanel in 1926, was celebrated by Vogue and the world as a dress that would be worn forever. Made out of wool jersey and silk satin, it features a pleated skirt and a self-fabric belt.

Enamel Cuff Bracelets

In the 1930s, Chanel herself frequently wore imitation jewelry created in collaboration with exclusive jeweler Duke Fulco di Verdura. This innovative concept would later be embraced and legitimized within the industry by Chanel. The Enamel Cuff bracelets were exquisitely designed, featuring mismatched semi-precious stones in stunning Byzantine motifs.

Detail of day suit, Haute Couture, Autumn 2002. Courtesy of Daphne Guinness/Photography Nick D’Emilio.

Comète Necklace

Chanel's first fine jewelry collection launched in 1932, during the Great Depression. The Comète Necklace, featuring platinum and diamonds set in the forms of stars, has a unique design, as the piece drapes softly around the neck.

Evening Ensemble, Haute Couture

Chanel reimagined the classic Little Black Dress, designing elegant gowns that are still considered some of her finest work, creating a wearable nighttime look. The dress accentuates the slim, fitted silhouette and features a flowing train made of ruffles, tulle, and silk.

Leather and Satin Shoes

The timeless Chanel slingback, launched in 1958, was a product of collaboration with couture shoemaker Raymond Massaro. It is celebrated for its two-tone design, which cleverly creates two fundamental optical illusions. The beige leather elongates the leg, while the rounded black satin toe cap gives the illusion of a shorter foot.

Left: Detail of previous jacket. Courtesy of Daphne Guinness/Photography Nick D’Emilio. Right: Illustration of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, by Donald Robertson.

2.55 Handbag

After reopening the couture house, Chanel revisited the idea of designing shoulder bags. The 2.55 handbag, named after its launch month and year, featured burgundy lining and an adjustable chain strap. The exterior pays homage to Chanel's suits and riding clothing, with a leather or jersey exterior quilted in diamonds or chevron stripes.

Day Suit, Haute Couture

In the Autumn of 1959, fabric enthusiast Gabrielle Chanel used two bold patterns to craft a stunning day suit. This exquisite piece features bold Vichy and Prince of Wales checks. The Vichy checks adorn the jacket lining and sleeveless blouse, while the Prince of Wales checks elegantly trace the pockets and the line where the jacket meets the skirt.

Theater Suit

Before the start of World War II, Chanel created this velvet evening suit, a piece of the final collection the Parisian house presented in 1939, before the war. Inspired by French painter Jean-Antoine Watteau's work and eighteenth-century male attire, the bold red suit featured a high ruffled neck, a peplum top, and gold buttons. After this collection, the house closed down and reopened in 1953.

Evening Dress, Haute Couture

In the 1920s, Chanel's cocktail dresses and gowns were inspired by the patterns and colors of the Art Deco period. They were highly decorative, featuring metallic, sequined, and embroidered designs. This gold and black slip dress reflects the skyscrapers that were beginning to redefine city skylines.

Elements of this story are taken from Chanel: The Impossible Collection by Alexander Fury.

Frankie Rayder and Mariacarla Boscono on the beach at Biarritz, where Gabrielle Chanel opened her first couture house in 1915. Photo credit: Chanel/photo Karl Lagerfeld/spring-summer 2003.

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The Ultimate Collection Chanel: The Impossible Collection
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All Books Chanel 3-Book Slipcase (New Edition)
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The Classics Collection Paris Chic
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The Classics Collection Chanel: The Legend of an Icon
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