Room 34 at La Colombe D’Or

Some destinations can only exist on some level of secrecy. They’re passed around like little love notes in one’s pocket, they’re subtle winks among a select set who share the same vision of luxury and reclusivity. In the picturesque village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, nestled in Provence, stands an edifice of heritage, art and seclusion—La Colombe d'Or. This fabled hotel, with its ochre walls and ivy-clad terraces, represents an idyllic confluence of bohemian spirit, Provençal charm and privacy.

For Martine and Prosper Assouline, Colombe d’Or is much more than a symbol of a summer well spent. Upon the couple’s first visit,, it inspired their first ever Assouline book, La Colombe d’Or, and served as the catalyst for the Assouline business.

The Assoulines visit La Colombe d’Or during the same week every year, in July. Their chosen room is 34 - a small house of their own with a big living room, bedroom and bath, and the perfect terrace with a sweeping view of the valley on which they take their daily breakfast. ”At Colombe d’Or, there’s no presidential suite or anything like that,” Martine says. “It's the reason we like it.” 

La Colombe d'Or was born from humble beginnings in 1920, when innkeeper Paul Rouxand his wife Titine, sought to create a haven where art and life could intertwine. What began as a modest auberge burgeoned into a cultural retreat.

In the halcyon days of the early 20th century, the French Riviera was a magnet for the avant-garde, its sun-dappled coast luring artists, writers and intellectuals. La Colombe d'Or became an irresistible beacon for creative wayfarers. Under the Provençal sun, luminaries such as Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, and Léger found respite and inspiration. 

Every corner of La Colombe d'Or exudes a sense of history. The grand terrace, where guests dine among heady scents of lavender and rosemary, has borne witness to countless cultural moments. The essence of La Colombe d'Or is best encapsulated in its eclectic collection of art, a veritable pantheon of 20th-century masterpieces. A Braque adorns a dining room wall and a mosaic in the pool, while a huge ceramic by F. Lége graces the terrace. Just outside, a Calder mobile dances in the breeze - a kinetic testament to the synergy of art and nature that permeates this hallowed place. 

But for the Assoulines, every perfect moment at La Colombe d’Or hails back to their first greetings of the day, on the terrace, pouring over their news of the day alongside a hot cup of coffee. “My favorite time there is our mornings on the terrace, with my coffee and the little things I love,” says Martine. “It’s quiet, with only the birds and the wind. It’s the calm before the rest of the day. But what I love most there is a kind of family life, in a magnificent but not show off way. That, and good service - only sun and a smile!”