The Best Exhibit in Paris Right Now is an Homage to the Hats of Stephen Jones

In a world dominated by artistic “collages,” you can feel the authentic inspirations of the likes of Cocteau, Dali, and of course Schiaparelli, twisted by Jones’s visionary eye. Still carrying the tradition of great milliners such as Madame Paulette or Caroline Reboux, Jones occupies a unique position behind the scenes in the fashion world. The scene he sets is as if George Cukor met Stephen Frears at the Ritz to chat with Andy Warhol over a cup of tea. From “Menuet” and “Je ne sais quoi” to “Madame Février,” the magical inspiration is unquestionably Parisian. “Although I have visited Paris over a thousand times, the myth of Paris has always been stronger than reality,” he says. 

With Jones, the golden age of haute couture melts into an ultra-contemporary, jubilant vision. “I could take the same grosgrain bow, intended for four different designers, and each one would have its signature look,” he continues. “The one for Maria Grazia Chiuri would reflect her vision of the ideal, perfectly symmetrical bow. For Rei Kawakubo, I could tie the ribbon and then wash down the colors. If I made a bow for Thom Browne, it would be a bit preppy: the ends of the ribbon would come up a bit, so it would look both impeccable and upbeat. For Daniel Roseberry, at Schiaparelli, the bow would take on an extravagant air, one loop would be longer than the other."

At the Palais Galliera, experiencing the exhibit is so immersive that nothing feels nostalgic. You are invited into a visionary world, where the scenography by Sandra Courtine (CIEL Architects) creates a series of alcoves, inside which the hats follow a slightly erratic path. You slip from Covent Garden to the Golden Triangle, from the Blitz era to Marie Antoinette’s inspiration, and from Vivienne Westwood to Louis Vuitton. In each his style is unique and multi-faceted.

Another welcome surprise is that you not only discover hats, but also full silhouettes. An entire room is dedicated to craftsmanship. Between drawings, ‘maquettes,’ and show pieces, you truly follow the entire creative process. Jones, who has worked with Dior for almost 30 years, is also the man who can come up with wildest creations for Thierry Mugler or Comme des Garçons. Transgressing the “Ascot” style exercise, he shares with us the absolute joy of his profession. When you meet him in person, it’s even easier to admire his work, his sensitivity and his vision. He is one of those people who, like the French fashion illustrator Christian Bérard in his day, seem to remain one of the authentic magicians of a profession that is often said to be tired. The exhibit is on view at the Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de Paris, through March 16, 2025.