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200 Years of Marchesi's Beloved Panettone

Embodying the lifestyle of Milan since 1824, the celebrated Pasticceria's Pastry Chef, Diego Crosara, discusses how he keeps the perfect balance between heritage and creativity.
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Marchesi 1824's Pastry Production Manager Diego Crosara checking the correct leavening of a Panettone. Courtesy of Marchesi 1824.

In Milan, Marchesi 1824 is more than just a shop—it's a staple pasticceria, or pastry shop, synonymous with comfort and tradition. Woven into the city's culinary landscape, the historic pasticceria is a beloved fixture that has been evolving with the city and is now celebrating its bicentennial in 2024. The flagship boutique sits on the charming cobblestone street of Via Maria alla Porta, a sweet sanctuary for locals and travelers alike, offering candied oranges, cremini chocolates, Italian cookies, and other delicacies. 

Among their creations, Marchesi 1824's Panettone remains a top-selling dish that captures the essence of the holiday season with its craftsmanship and unique flavor combinations. The iconic Italian Christmas cake is light, fluffy, and baked in a meticulous way to achieve the perfect balance of taste and texture. Diego Crosara, the Pastry Chef and Product Manager at Marchesi, who is also a Culinary World Champion, talks about the deeper significance of Panettone. "In Italy, it is the star of celebrations, representing the essence of the festivities, and with it, the history and identity of our country," he says.

The Marchesi 1824 location in Mayfair, London. Courtesy of Marchesi 1824.

The Panettone recipe has been refined and perfected for two centuries, starting with the foundation of it all: the sourdough starter. The dough is mixed with a selection of high-quality local ingredients, like milk from Piedmont, oranges from Sicily, and honey from Veneto. When thinking about ways to innovate the popular bread, Crosara tries to focus on ingredients that are complementary and balance each other well. "This year, we introduced a Panettone with figs, honey, and vanilla, as well as a Panettone with apple, cinnamon, and caramel. On the savory side, we experimented with new ideas such as a Panettone with anchovies, capers, and olives," he shares. Marchesi also serves seasonal offerings, including the summer and fall Panettone. The former features a blend of apricots, lemons, and almonds, while the latter is filled with chestnuts candied in a sugar syrup and blended with Bourbon vanilla.

Left: Before baking, the Panettone dough is left to rise. Right: Freshly baked Panettone in the Marchesi 1824 laboratory is hung upside down for cooling. Courtesy of Marchesi 1824.

"Taking it back to the classics, the traditional Panettone is timeless, never boring," Crosara says. "It is a staple you'll certainly find at the Christmas table of any Italian family." During the holidays, the chef loves to pair the classic flavor with a dry sparkling wine, although the usual recommendation is a sweet wine. When pairing Marchesi's chocolate Panettone, Crosara loves a red beer. 

Marchesi 1824 is central to the Italian lifestyle, reflecting three fundamental values dear to Crosara’s heart: tradition, warmth, and craftsmanship. "We constantly aim to do our best, always putting ourselves on a new challenge," he explains. "Our continuous search for new flavors is the engine that drives us to renew ourselves constantly." Crosara doesn't advise baking Panettone at home, but it's certainly worth a trip to Milan.

Left: A Fall Panettone with candied chestnuts. Right: Winter Panettone with apple, caramel and cinnamon. Courtesy of Marchesi 1824.

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